Dried herbs have long been part of a chef's arsenal of seasonings, but fresh herbs have not always been de rigueur. Until recently, parsley was about the only fresh herb found in a restaurant-kitchen's pantry, and it was most likely to be used as a garnish. But now it seems that chefs everywhere are serving up imaginative dishes inspired by a bounty of garden herbs.

From dill-infused beet vichyssoise and rosemary-laden focaccia to thyme-roasted chicken and pasta primavera with cilantro pesto, vibrant herbs are commanding center stage on the nation's menus. Even desserts have fallen under the herbal spell, with creations such as minty-peach cobbler and lemon-balm sorbet tempting customers' taste buds.

The growing enthusiasm for fresh herbs has paralleled the surging popularity of ethnic cuisines. (Herbs play a pivotal role in Thai, Vietnamese, Latin American and regional-Italian cuisines.) In addition, health-conscious diners have embraced herb-inspired fare, because garden herbs are fat free, low in salt and calories, and add zip to the taste of low-fat dishes. The year-round availability of herbs has also blossomed, making it possible for operators to offer a variety of dishes featuring fresh herbal tastes.

Thyme to experiment

Garden herbs add flair to menus in myriad ways. If the potato-and-leek chowder is tasting a bit flat, a little dill or parsley will liven things up. Does the grilled mahi-mahi need something extra? Perhaps a cilantro-lime butter will do the trick. Is the black-bean soup lacking in verve? Thyme, bay leaf and oregano will stir up the pot. You say the red sauce needs more excitement? A mixture of chopped basil, oregano and marjoram will revitalize it. Here is a list of some of the herbs you can experiment with to add a fresh taste to dishes from hearty soups to delicate desserts.

Sweet basil was one of the first herbs to win the public over. Best known for its role in pesto, basil has undertones of anise, mint and black pepper. It lends an elegant presence to Thai curry sauces, gives a twist to salsa, and perks up almost any salad dressing or tomato-based soup. The last-minute addition of basil can transform a humdrum tomato sauce into a savory blockbuster. Basil also lends an herbal intensity to aioli, a garlicky French sauce with a silky, rich texture. Although green basil is the variety commonly found in kitchens, some chefs also sprinkle in Thai basil (which has a licorice accent) and opal basil (which has an attractive purple hue).

Cilantro rose to fame as a central flavoring in Mexican food. Also known as Chinese parsley and coriander, the herb has a pungent, cleansing taste — some people describe it as soapy — and bears a striking resemblance to parsley. Although cilantro is best known for providing the spark in authentic salsa, the herb has a lengthy international resume. It perks up a range of dishes, such as gazpacho, guacamole,
Indian chutney, curry dishes, spicy bean-and-rice salads, stir-fries, and Latin-American barbecue sauces. One of the best soups I ever tasted was an aromatic Thai coconut soup that had a single leaf of cilantro floating in the middle — a little cilantro goes a long way.

Marjoram and oregano are the fraternal twins of the herbal family. The two herbs are similar in appearance and flavor, and are often confused with one another. Both have a musky, pine-resin fragrance and a delicate texture. Though widely used in dried form, the fresh versions of those herbs are most prevalent in Mediterranean and Mexican dishes. Marjoram and oregano mix well with basil, thyme or mint.

One of the most versatile (but often underrated) herbs is thyme. The herb's pungent oval petals can be found in real New England clam chowder, Caribbean squash bisque, spicy barbecue marinades, mustard vinaigrette, Mediterranean pasta salads, and basting sauces for grilled chicken and vegetables. Thyme works especially well with mushrooms, invigorating woodsy mushroom soups and sauces. Unlike most fresh herbs, thyme retains its flavor during the cooking process, so it can be added at any time. One trick is to simmer whole branches of thyme in a soup and remove the branches near the end of the cooking time, so that the petals are left behind in the soup.

A variety of herbs with the refreshing scent of spring comes under the "mint" category of herbs. There are pineapple mint, orange mint, spearmint, peppermint, chocolate mint and several other varietals with subtle nuances. Although mint leaves are often used as a seasoning for lamb and game, the herb also provides an uplifting taste in cool yogurt sauces, grain salads, berry muffins and fruity desserts. When combined with oregano and thyme, mint adds appealing dimensions to your basic oil-and-vinegar marinades and vinaigrettes.

Arugula is another herb gaining prominence in the hallowed kitchens of imaginative chefs. The pale-green, oak-shaped leaf of this herb has a peppery disposition that wonderfully spices up a tossed salad of gourmet greens. Also known as rocket or roquette, the Italian herb rejuvenates cold pasta dishes, grilled chicken salads, braised greens, minestrone, pasta fagiola and other tomato-based soups. Arugula makes a spicy replacement for basil in pesto. It can be substituted for cilantro in salsa for a change of pace.

Dill and rosemary are two distinctive herbs with burgeoning culinary potential. Dill is a light, feathery leaf with a lemony, caraway-like flavor, and is a popular herb for use in vichyssoise, potato salad, cucumber bisque, root-vegetable purees and delicate sauces for fish. Rosemary is a slender, needlelike reed with a potent pine-tree aroma; it perks up sauces for meat and poultry, roasted potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes and flat breads, such as focaccia and bialy. The sturdier branches of rosemary make whimsical kebab skewers for grilled vegetables.

Although it is often dismissed as being commonplace, parsley can enhance almost any dish, from salad dressings, creamy soups and homemade mayonnaises to marinades for meat and fish, rice entrees, and pasta sauces. I've found that a chef can never have too much parsley in the kitchen. There are two common varieties on the market: curly leaf (which is springy and tightly bunched) and the stronger Italian flat leaf (which is loosely bunched).

Chefs are also rolling out dishes infused with classic herb blends. One refined combination is called fines herbes, a mixture of chopped tarragon, chervil, parsley and/or chives. Fines herbes adds a light touch to omelets, parsnip and corn chowders, fish stews, and salad dressings. To impart an elegant taste to marinated chicken or grilled vegetables, try herbes de Provence, a blend of thyme, basil, savory, fennel and lavender flowers — all herbs grown in the Provence region of France.

Fresh bouquet garni has also come into vogue in today's restaurant kitchens. To make an herb bouquet, simply use twine to tie together whole sprigs of herbs, such as parsley, thyme, bay leaves, oregano, rosemary and marjoram. Simmer the bouquet garni in delicate soups and sauces.

Sage advice

Fresh herbs are easy to prepare — simply wash the herbs under cold running water, pat dry with a paper towel, and chop with a knife or snip with kitchen scissors. If the herb has a woody stem (as thyme or rosemary do), strip off the leaves with your fingers and discard the stem. To cut large leaves chiffonnade-style, stack the herbs, roll into a cigar shape and cut into thin strips.

To retain optimum flavor, herbs should be chopped at the last possible minute. Keep in mind that fresh herbs tend to lose their potency when cooked for a long time, so it is best to add them during the final stages of meal preparation. If a dish is served cold, such as in an antipasto or pasta salad, add the herbs before refrigerating, to allow their flavors to meld together.

Always store herbs in a cooler, preferably in a plastic bag lined with a paper towel. In a perfect world, the herbs would be stored on a shelf in a container half-filled with water and stood up bouquet-style. I must confess that whenever I have tried this, the herbs have inevitably fallen over and water has spilled everywhere. If properly refrigerated, herbs should last for three to five days.

Dried versus fresh

Dried herbs are an integral part of every chef's spice repertoire and should be used along with fresh herbs — it doesn't have to be an either/or proposition. Remember that whole or crumbled herbs retain their flavor much longer than ground herbs, so for maximum flavor, gently crush the leaves in a mortar and pestle (or rub the herbs between your fingers) before adding. This initial "bruising" helps release the herbs' essential flavors.

Unlike fresh herbs, dried herbs taste best when they are added during the cooking process. Dried herbs' flavors diminish after about six months. Always store dried herbs in tightly covered containers in a cool, dark place away from direct heat or sunlight — in other words, nowhere near ovens or range tops.

When substituting fresh herbs for dried herbs, the ratio should be about three times as much fresh herbs as dry.

Spice synergy

Far from being a passing fad, nouveau herbal cookery is here to stay. The days of bland, spice-less food are rapidly fading into a distant memory. Herbs provide a well-rounded synergy in countless dishes on the menu and offer appealing choices to discerning customers. As chefs continue to expand their seasoning horizons, garden herbs will play an indispensable role in the epicurean kitchen.

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