Around the country, restaurateurs are making heads and tails of a new trend: serving whole-fish dishes. Operators are discovering that whether it’s simply grilled with a dash of olive oil or battered and fried, a whole fish — served with its head and tail — makes a unique and striking dish that lures true fish-lovers and adds a splash of excitement to the menu.

"People look for new and different things these days; anyone can get a chargrilled fish," says Kevin Sawyer, executive sous chef at Charley’s Crab in Palm Beach, Florida.

It definitely is a unique addition to the menu, says Albino Castro, co-owner of Mi Rancho, a Mexican Restaurant, in Silver Spring, Maryland. Castro first offered the "Mesquite Grilled Whole Red Snapper" as a special about two years after the restaurant opened, and it has remained a weekend mainstay. "My partner, Jose Alvarrez, said, ‘Let’s try something new, something different,’ so this is what we did — and my customers love it," he says.

Catching the right catch of the day

Because whole fish is typically served simply, it is a dish that must meet certain specifications as to quality, size and appearance. The best size to look for when selecting product for a whole-fish dish is from 1 to 1 1/2 pounds, says Steve Gauthe, purchasing manager at Bacco in New Orleans. "Over that would be too large; under it wouldn’t be sufficient enough to satisfy," he says. He recommends that no more than half of the total weight of the fish be meat.

The variety of fish is also important, he says. For example, salmon would not be available in the small size needed for a successful whole-fish dish. Gauthe has purchased red fish, sea bass, trout, rainbow trout, snapper and striped bass for use in Bacco’s whole-fish dishes. Another popular whole-fish choice — for its name recognition as well as its taste — is pompano.

Gauthe updates his suppliers every morning about what he needs for that day’s menu, and they tell him what they have that would be suitable. He advises restaurateurs to order more fish than they think they might need, in case some of the product is substandard. When choosing fish for a whole-fish dish, restaurateurs should inspect the fish carefully for marks, bruises, torn skin or missing fins. Purveyors can sometimes clean and gut the fish, which will shorten preparation time. Operators not located near water may want to consider using farm-raised fish instead of fresh.

The best length for a whole fish is 12 inches, so that it will fit on a serving plate. If a fish is a little too long and doesn’t quite fit on the plate, Gauthe says he will skewer it and bend it into a crescent shape before cooking. The skewered shape can make for an unusual presentation.

Freshness, of course, is imperative when choosing fish. Philip Kromer, chef at Big Fish in Conshohocken, Pennsylvania, just outside Philadelphia, says there are several indicators of freshness. The skin should feel springy and firm and not mushy to the touch; the eyes should not be milky or cloudy; the gills should be a vibrant red underneath and the fish should have no smell.

Schools of thought

There’s more than one way to cook a whole-fish dish — and many restaurateurs agree that whether it is baked, grilled or roasted, the results can be equally successful. The flavor is important in serving any fish, but with whole fish the taste is paramount, because there is little else to go on. "Some people want it to be masked with a hundred different flavors, like salmon in a buttery sauce, for instance," says Gauthe, but the secret to whole fish is to serve it sans heavy sauces.

At Bacco, the fish is lightly coated with olive oil to prevent sticking and to add flavor, before it is filled with herbed stuffing. The fish is then grilled on each side for several minutes and finished off in the oven to ensure that the meat is thoroughly cooked. No more than one-third of the cooking time should be on the grill, says Gauthe.

The simplicity of a whole-fish dish makes it one of Sawyer’s favorite menu items. "Our philosophy is to pair [the fish] with some nice accompaniments, but to let you taste the true flavor," he says. Sawyer deep-fries a whole fish in a beer-batter mix, scoring the skin to make it pull from the bone easier.

The "Whole Swimming Fish" at Big Fish is also the picture of simplicity. While there are oceans of ways to cook a fish, Kromer says the elements of the dish really lend itself to baking or grilling. For this dish, the fish is brushed with some olive oil, grilled and served with a jalapeno sauce. "Unlike other dishes, with whole fish the presentation and the product speak for itself," he says.

Fishing for compliments

Restaurateurs who serve whole fish agree that a top-notch presentation will not only please the patron who ordered the dish but also encourage other diners to buy it.

"It looks interesting. It creates an awareness in the dining room when a plate comes out with a big fish on it," says Sawyer. As a plate with the whole fish is carried through Charley’s Crab’s dining room, Sawyer often hears guests comment on the dish or point it out to other diners. The restaurant occasionally receives an overnight delivery of a whole king salmon. Sawyer turns the delivery into a promotional opportunity — by carrying the 60-pound fish through the dining room. "It really creates a sense of awe, a sense of freshness in the restaurant."

Although there are true fish-lovers who appreciate the simple presentation of the dish, not every diner wants to see the whole fish. Customers at Bacco have requested the whole fish to be served minus the head and tail; Kromer has an occasional request for a whole fish to be presented minus just the head.

Castro instructs waitstaff to remind customers that the fish is served whole. "We tell them, ‘If you are a fish-lover, you’ll like this,’ " he says. Although customers at Mi Rancho don’t typically ask for the head or tail to be removed, Castro admits that when he walks by tables he will occasionally see the head of the fish carefully covered with a tomato slice.

Operators may want to consider offering customers the option of removing the head or tail. "We do whatever the customer requests," Gauthe says, "to make the dish pleasing to the individual’s eye as well as to the palette."

Presentation of a whole-fish dish at Bacco sometimes includes a tableside fillet by servers. Managers and servers meet for a pre-dinner meeting to discuss new dishes and practice their presentation. "The whole [filleting] procedure really takes about two or three minutes," Gauthe says.

The filleting process is relatively simple, but Gauthe recommends holding several practice sessions with servers. Using a fork and a spoon, a server breaks the skin at the top of the back of the fish and slides the spoon downward to separate the skin and detach the bones. The skin is then pulled away, and the bones are removed. "It’s always helpful to remind the customer that there may still be some bones inside," he adds. The hardest part of learning the skill may be learning how to maneuver delicately around the customer. "The customer’s plate is right there [while you fillet the fish], so you have to be graceful and watch your elbows."

Swimming upstream?

Serving whole fish can offer your customers a distinctive dining experience — in both product and presentation. The simplicity of this dish could make it a welcome addition to almost any menu, but don’t expect it to be a hit with everyone, say these restaurateurs.

A lot of customers may be intimidated initially by the look and the presentation of a whole-fish dish, and operators should be prepared to do a little educating. "It’s a familiarity thing," explains Kromer. "[But] once people conjure up the courage to try it, they’ll come back and get it again. Our ‘Whole Swimming Fish’ is a unique item that’s worked really well for us."

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