Until recently, the mighty mushroom was but a lowly member of the American food chain. Most Americans — for some understandable reasons — have happily remained in the dark about the mysteries of the humble fungi. Grown close to the earth or under the soil, mushrooms thrive in decay; they come from the family of organisms that includes crusts and molds, and many are poisonous. In fact, scientists still don't know whether hundreds of mushroom species are edible or not. Perhaps that's why 99 percent of the fresh mushrooms consumed in the United States are still the dependable, safe white button mushrooms.

But the mushroom has a noble and storied history. Kings of ancient Babylon dined on baseball-sized truffles from the African deserts. For hundreds of years, hunting for the matsutake was a favorite pastime of Japanese nobility, who followed elaborate rules of dress, speech and behavior during the hunt. Roman Emperor Caligula was so taken by the humble mushroom that he proclaimed it the "food of the gods" and passed laws prohibiting ordinary citizens from eating any. One particular mushroom so pleased Roman emperors that they named it the imperial fungus, "Amanita Caesarea."

Today, Americans are finally starting to catch the thousand-year-old fungus fever. Although mushrooms have been around since the dawn of time, a growing demand for new tastes, exotic ingredients and alternatives to traditional dishes has spurred a mushroom revival. In the past decade, as sales of fresh mushrooms have grown 25 percent, sales of specialty mushrooms have exploded. Between 1989 and 1995, sales of oyster mushrooms grew 36 percent, sales of shiitakes more than doubled, and sales of all specialty mushrooms increased 112 percent, according to the American Mushroom Institute, located in Avondale, Pennsylvania.

What is it about these woody fungi that motivates people to crawl through underbrush in search of them, inspires the creation of elaborate rituals and sets mouths watering? Their rich, complex flavor is certainly one reason. Their elusiveness is another.

But the true lure and mystery of the mushroom is its wildness. Even though mushrooms are one of the oldest foods known to humans, they are also one of the last to succumb to cultivation. And today, even though science has made inroads into cultivating fungi, we are still at the mercy of nature for a rich harvest of this fabled food.

Morel mania

Late March, when French morels make their appearance in specialty shops, is the true beginning of the year for mushroom lovers. Even though morels have been successfully cultivated for the past five years, most experts and mushroom lovers agree that their flavor doesn't compare to the wild morel, which is generally available through June.

If the weather cooperates, black morels arrive in early April, followed by yellow morels and white morels. Honeycombed caps set these aristocrats of the forest apart from other mushrooms. They run in size from tiny to huge, and their thin flesh belies the deep, earthy flavor that has established the morel as a culinary favorite.

When buying morels, look for dry mushrooms that have a sweet aroma. Be careful to inspect for maggot infestation. Once purchased, the morels should be refrigerated immediately. Store them in a basket or box that allows cool air to circulate. Plastic bags or wrapping will cause the mushrooms to turn bad quickly. Morels also deteriorate when exposed to water. Don't clean them until you are ready to use them; then wipe them with a damp, soft brush or cloth. You can slice larger morels lengthwise, trim the stems and wipe out the hollow interior, which is perfect for stuffing.

Morels have an uncanny ability to adapt to a wide variety of dishes and sauces, but they should not be eaten raw. A classic preparation is to cook them in cream sauce, but they're just as comfortable in white-wine sauces paired with mild-flavored meats, such as veal or chicken.

One characteristic of the morel is that it is naturally chewy, especially when mature. The consistency and their dense, smoky flavor go well with grilled and roasted foods. Another favorite combination is morels and asparagus, two harbingers of spring. Saute the mushrooms in butter with spring onions or shallots, then finish with a chicken stock. Try to avoid combining morels with strong flavors, such as tomato, red wine or venison, which tend to overpower the mushroom's subtle flavor.

If you aren't able to immediately use your full cache of morels, try drying the mushrooms. Morels reconstitute better than most mushrooms and make excellent soups. A rich morel consomme would be an unexpected treat for your customers in the heart of winter.

Summer bounty

The meaty boletes, known to the French as cepes and to the Italians as porcini, show up in June, and then again in late September, before disappearing in November. The bolete is Europe's favorite mushroom and inspires a lively debate among mushroom lovers over whether it is better served fresh or dried.

Characterized by large, rusty-brown caps and fat, white stalks, the average bolete is three to five inches wide, although some porcini have been know to grow to five pounds or more. The stems are edible, but the flesh of the cap is best. The meat has a robust, earthy taste and a silky texture.

When selecting boletes, look for caps that are firm and dry with a pale sponge layer. Test the stem for firmness and any insect damage, and look for a rich, woodsy aroma. Store boletes on a towel-covered tray in the refrigerator. To prepare, trim the tough base and wipe with a damp cloth or brush off any dirt. If the undersides of the caps (the pores) are mushy, scrape them out with a spoon.

A classic preparation is to brush the boletes' caps with a garlic-infused oil, grill and serve as a first course. Some chefs like to sprinkle on Parmesan cheese just before the caps are finished. You can also braise and serve at room temperature as a side dish to grilled meat or poultry. The flavor is usually too strong for fish, with the exception of tuna, shark and other steak fish. Beef, veal and game pair well with fresh boletes sauteed in onion over medium-high heat.

Dried-bolete lovers prefer to set a table laden with stews and sauces of reconstituted mushrooms. Just drop dried boletes into a stew and let them work their magic. Or cover with water, bring to a boil, then simmer. Use the resulting black liquid as a base for soups or sauces. Remember, the essence of the mushroom is in the liquid — not the rehydrated bolete.

Chanterelles share summer glory with the boletes. Today, they are one of the most popular wild mushrooms in the world. Chefs and consumers alike are captivated by their lovely orange-gold color, graceful lily shape and delicate but rich taste, which can run from apricot to nutty to peppery; some chefs say the chanterelle has cinnamon or hazelnut tones.

When shopping, select dry chanterelles with unbroken caps. Pick the youngest you can find, which will be firm to the touch and orange in color. Store in the refrigerator in a single layer in a basket, or in a brown paper bag, allowing room for air to circulate. When ready to use, brush them clean and trim the stems a bit.

Unlike many other mushrooms, the stem of the chanterelle can and should be used — it adds a peppery finish to dishes. The mushroom's fruity flavor does not work well with beef but lends itself winningly to fowl and game, especially when you balance its apricot flavor against nuts. Butter, onions and diced apricots are also natural companions to chanterelles — but the mushroom should be used sparingly and simply. The flavor is distinct and powerful. Use small quantities in soups and casseroles, or braise, saute or cook the mushrooms slowly in liquid then reduce for use in sauces or as a glaze. Chanterelles also match well with acidic foods and can be paired with lemon in shellfish dishes.

Foraging in the fall

Harvest season is the time for fowl and game, and it's also the time for the hen of the woods. This fowl-named fungus is a special treat for fall feasts. The mushroom grows as a big mass, hence its common name of sheep's head. This mushroom is composed of branched clusters of small, overlapping caps and typically weighs up to four or five pounds. When buying the hen, look for undersides that are pale beige — a yellowish underside means the mushroom is older and less desirable.

The hen is a culinary wonder; its smoky taste is at once nutty, garlicky and quintessential autumn. Break the clusters into bite-sized pieces, stew about 20 minutes in light stock, then simmer with a touch of cream for pastas. Another way to prepare the hen is to braise it with roasted garlic, olive oil and white wine until tender, or wrap with pancetta and roast until tender. The mushroom's garlicky undertones lend themselves well to smoked meats and sausages, and it is often served in fall dishes featuring pheasant, duck or chicken.

Winter woodland treats

The aptly named hedgehog — also known as the sweet tooth — gets its name from the tiny pointed teeth on the underside of its cap. Its wavy orange cap starts appearing in early fall, but the hedgehog is best known as a winter mushroom. In both color and flavor it resembles the chanterelle.

The best hedgehogs are small, pale, evenly colored and clean. Because the mushroom tends to be very brittle, it often breaks apart. But don't despair — the mushroom loses nothing when it is in pieces. Since the hedgehog is a winter crop, it stores well in a walk-in and lasts much longer than typical mushrooms. Like the chanterelle, its delicate flavor works well in soups and with lighter foods, and the firm flesh holds up nicely when sauteed. Try pairing this variety of mushroom with leeks, shellfish or fowl.

Another winter treat is the matsutake. Although the shiitake is one of the most well-known and prized of Asian mushrooms in this country, the matsutake is Japan's favorite mushroom. The white-capped mushrooms grow in pine forests, and the firm, white flesh holds a spicy pine taste.

One of the pleasures of the matsutake is that the meaty mushroom does not toughen when cooked. A simple, classic preparation is to lightly brush the mushroom with oil, then grill or roast it over wood chips and serve with a soy-based dipping sauce. The Japanese prefer to slice or break matsutakes in pieces and cook them in broth or quickly pan-fry them. Try serving sauteed matsutake with tuna or shark steaks. Its piney flavor also works well with game.

Other forest delights

Scores of other mushrooms can be found in today's restaurants. Truffles, shiitake, enoki, portobellos and oyster mushrooms are just a few. Some are available year-round. Others have short seasons but are good candidates for drying, which allows their flavor to be featured in dishes throughout the year.

Some general storing and cooking rules can be applied to most mushrooms. Select mushrooms that are firm and fragrant without visible signs of infestation. Store them in the refrigerator, in a basket or on a tray, allowing air to circulate. Before using them, cut off woody stems and trim the bottoms of tender stems. Don't rinse mushrooms, unless you can't brush or rub off the dirt. When sauteed, delicately textured mushrooms tend to be good accompaniments for meats and fish. Firmer mushrooms hold up well to grilling and marinating.

Experiment with wild mushrooms in your appetizers or use them to spice up soups. Once you start to get a feel for mushrooms, you (and your customers) will want to make these seasonal stars mainstays on your menu.

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